How I Make A Camica (Shift)

The shift (camica in Italian) is the basic undergarment for women of all classes and all styles of dress across western Europe from the early middle ages through the eighteenth century. While it goes by different names at different times and in different places, and the style does vary a bit, especially in later centuries, this is a good basic square necked shift pattern that will work for just about any Italian Renaissance outfit. While upper class camice were frequently embellished, and you can certainly do so to yours, a simple one will never look out of place with any Italian ensemble. While the Italian style isn't exactly the same as what is seen in Northern Europe in the 16th century, you could certainly get away with using this with English or German garb in a pinch. Just keep in mind that the Italian style of shift is much more voluminous, so if you need this to work with clothes from other regions, consider reducing the volume of fabric used, particularly in the body.

The pattern is extremely simple; it's just rectangles.  The linen I use is 58 inches wide, which is a lot wider than 16th century fabrics.  Since that's close to double a period loom width, I use one full fabric width total for the front and back (so a half width for the front and the other half width for the back).  Since I'm very petite, I could probably get away with a bit less if I was really trying to conserve fabric, but just using the full width makes cutting very simple, so that's what I do.  So the front and back pieces are one full fabric width by the desired length, which for me is just a little below the knee, though a lot of people prefer theirs longer.  The side panels are the same length by one quarter fabric width, and the sleeves are a quarter width by 6-12 inches longer than your arm, depending on how voluminous you want them to be.  One quarter width makes for a narrower sleeve; if you want yours more voluminous, use more fabric!  The underarm gussets are approximately 10x10 inch squares, which I cut out of the fabric left over from the difference between the sleeve and side panel lengths.  Cuffs and neck band are optional, depending on your style.

I like to use sheer linen,
but there are plenty of 
other fabric choices 
that work just as well.

I use about 2.5 yards of 58 inch wide fabric to make a camica, but if you're tall or want a really long one, you will probably need more.  I prefer a very light weight linen, because it can have a lot of volume without adding a lot of bulk.  Linen is the most correct period material, though cotton and linen/cotton blends were available in Italy and Spain in the 15th and 16th centuries.  Some reenactors use sheer silks, but there's little evidence for this in period.  The whole point of the camcia is to protect the not-very-washable silk and wool outer clothes from sweat and body oils, so it only makes sense to use an easily washable fabric.  While both cotton and linen are easy to wash, I prefer linen because I think it breathes better, and it also wicks moisture away from the body, rather than absorbing it like cotton, making it the most comfortable in hot weather.  The example garment in the pictures is a fine, sheer weight linen, though handkerchief linen is great, too.

I find flat felled seams
to be the most comfortable
finishing method for 
undergarments.

Start by sewing the sleeves together and inserting the gussets.  To do this, first line up one edge of a gusset with the top end of what will be the sleeve seam.  Sew them together right sides together.  Then sew the sleeve into a tube, stitching the adjacent side of the gusset to the other sleeve edge.  Once that's done, just stitch all the body pieces together.  I like to flat fell the seams on my camice, but French seams are also correct for the period.  Once that's done, finish the bottom edge with a narrow rolled hem (which is really easy to do on fine linen!).  Finish the sleeves either my hemming or by gathering them to narrow cuffs, and then gather (or smock, or whatever you want) your neckline to the desired width, which should at least peek out the top edge of your dress bodice.  I prefer to add a narrow neck band because it's easy and lies flat under my partlet, but it's really up to you.  Smocked and ruffled examples can be found in portraiture from the period.  Finally, if you have cuffed sleeves, add your fastenings.  I used hooks and eyes, but buttons and ties are also period.  

Adding the cuffs

And that's all there is to it; this is a really easy garment to make!  Like I said, this is a really simple garment, though the upper classes often wore embellished camice.  Blackwork, redwork, or polychrome embroidery all appear in art from the mid 16th century in Italy, as does lace insertion.  Decorative smocking is a pretty common and very attractive style of neckline finish for many different classes.  It's really up to you how much or how little embellishment you want on your garment.  Keep in mind, however, that while a simple camica looks good with a very fine court gown, a highly decorated one doesn't really work as well with working class garments.  One of the most important keys to putting together great historical costumes is remembering who you intend to portray and making sure all the pieces of the outfit fit that persona!